Tutorial sobre cómo hacer jabón Natural

 

Cómo hacer jabón natural de forma artesana.

Antes de ponernos manos a la obra debemos adoptar unas medidas de seguridad básicas e imprescindibles, son fáciles y sencillas pero no por ello menos importantes.

Para hacer jabón debemos trabajar con sosa caustica o hidróxido de sodio o bien con potasa. Es fundamental que nuestra piel no entre en contacto con este alcalí pues correríamos el riesgo de quemarnos, así que para ello usaremos guantes y gafas protectoras. Para no inhalar los vapores usaremos mascarilla y como utensilios no utilizaremos aluminio,  sino materiales de acero inoxidable, plástico duro, vidrio apto para el calor o madera. En todo momento mientras trabajamos con la sosa estaremos alejados de niños y mascotas y procuraremos estar en un lugar bien ventilado.

Con estas sencillas medidas ya podemos empezar.

  1. Materiales necesarios para elaborar jabón:

  • Batidora, preferible a baja potencia.
  • Recipiente para calentar aceites sólidos o mantecas.
  • Recipiente para mezclar el hidróxido de sodio y el agua.
  • Recipiente para hacer la mezcla de lejía (agua y alcalí) y grasas.
  • Báscula de precisión, que pese al menos de gramo en gramo.
  • Varilla, cuchara…

 

  1. Ingredientes para elaborar jabón:

No se puede hacer jabón sin la presencia de agua, un alcalí y grasas (pueden ser de procedencia animal o vegetal). No es posible convertir las grasas en jabón sin la presencia de un alcalí (éste puede ser sosa o potasa).

Así que para nuestra elaboración necesitaremos:

  • Aceites y mantecas (nosotros las utilizaremos vegetales)
  • Agua (puede ser agua destilada, agua mineral, infusiones, leche, jugos vegetales, zumos de frutas…)
  • Hidróxido de sodio o potasa.

Se puede decir que el jabón es el resultado químico de mezclar el alcalí y el agua con los ácido grasos. La reacción química resultante de la mezcla es la saponificación. Los ácidos grasos reaccionan ya sea con un ion de sodio o de potasio y se convierten en jabón. La molécula del jabón está formada por una cabeza hidrófila (afín al agua) y una cola lipófila (afín a las grasas).

 

  1. Sobre engrasado, Concentración y Lejía:

Estos son unos conceptos fundamentales en la elaboración del jabón.

Digamos que un jabón de limpieza del hogar, por ejemplo, no necesita tener un sobreengrasado ya que no necesita nutrir ni hidratar nada. De este modo la proporción de alcalí añadida a las grasas ha hecho que toda la mezcla se haya convertido en jabón. Pero si nosotros queremos hacer un jabón nutritivo para limpiar nuestra piel debemos tener en cuenta que en el jabón debe haber grasas que no hayan saponificado, es decir que no se han convertido en jabón. Así por ejemplo, un jabón con un 10% de sobre engrasado es aquel que tiene un 10% del total de las grasas sin saponificar y esto se consigue añadiendo un 10% más de grasas o descontando un 10% de la sosa añadida al agua. Si tiene sobre engrasado “cero” nuestro jabón tendrá todas las grasas saponificadas o convertidas en jabón y si tiene sobre engrasado negativo indicaría que tiene restos de alcalí en el jabón y por tanto sería perjudicial para la piel.

La concentración hace referencia a la cantidad de agua  que se añade a la lejía (mezcla de sosa y agua). Si la concentración es mayor se añadirá menos agua a la lejía y cuanto menor sea la concentración más agua requerirá la mezcla. La cantidad de alcalí en cualquier caso no variará. La ventaja de trabajar con una mayor concentración es que los jabones secarán a mayor velocidad ya que tiene que eliminar menos agua en el proceso de “curación”, se podrá obtener un jabón más duro y gelificará más fácilmente. Por el contrario, si queremos decorar el jabón, hacer firulillos, etc…, será más difícil.

La Lejía es la mezcla resultante de añadir el alcalí al agua.  En este momento es muy importante tener en cuenta las normas de seguridad previamente descritas. Se debe añadir siempre la sosa poco a poco al agua y nunca al revés. Si añadimos el agua a la sosa correríamos el riesgo de salpicarnos. La sosa que usaremos será siempre en perlas, del tamaño del azúcar, por ejemplo y de una pureza del 100% a ser posible. También existe en escamas pero es más difícil de deshacer en el agua.

 

foto 1 tutorial jabón blog

Haciendo la lejía

 

En este momento debemos tener guantes y gafas puestas y cómo no mascarilla. Los vapores que suelta la mezcla son tóxicos y no conviene respirarlos, de ahí que se haga la lejía en un lugar bien ventilado, patio, jardín o bien con las ventanas abiertas. Al principio tenemos una lejía con alta temperatura, lo ideal es dejarla enfriar para tenerla a la misma temperatura de las grasas que vamos a saponificar. Si decidimos trabajar con una concentración del 40%  trabajaremos con descuento de agua o lejiaza. Tendremos una lejía más concentrada.

 

foto 2 tutorial jabones blog

Mezclando la sosa y el agua

 

  1. Saponificación

Como ya indicamos más arriba es la reacción química resultante de mezclar los ácidos grasos con la lejía.  Los ácidos grasos de nuestros aceites y mantecas se asocian con el alcalí formando una sal, es decir, el jabón.

Aquí es muy importante tener en cuenta que cada aceite y manteca que vamos a usar tiene un índice de saponificación diferente, esto es, necesita una cantidad de alcalí específico para que se convierta en jabón. El peligro de echar la sosa sin calcular previamente cuanta cantidad necesita cada uno de los aceites empleados en la mezcla puede ser que haya sosa sobrante y perjudique nuestra piel o bien que quede un jabón muy blando en el que hay mucho aceite que no ha saponificado.

Existen muchas tablas de saponificación que nos ayudan a calcularla y también existen calculadoras de saponificación que nos facilitan ese trabajo.

 

  1. Otros Ingredientes:

Antes de empezar con cualquier fórmula, tenemos que tener en cuenta que existen una serie de ingredientes de los que hasta ahora no habíamos hablado y que también son importantes, como son: los colorantes, aceites esenciales, aromas y otros activos.

Nosotros elegiremos colorantes minerales de primera calidad, como los óxidos, los ultramar,  los pigmentos minerales, el cacao puro en polvo, café, carbón activado, alga espirulina en polvocúrcuma en polvo…( éstos suelen mezclarse previamente en aceite o en agua) , aceites esenciales y fragancias. La mayoría de las fragancias tiende a acelerar la traza, es decir, hacen que se espese la mezcla más rápido, esto es importante tenerlo en cuenta si queremos decorar el jabón, pues habrá que hacer todo el proceso más rápido. Los aceites esenciales no aceleran la traza, con la excepción del aceite esencial de clavo. Se suele añadir  entre un 5% y un  7% aproximadamente del total de las grasas (esto es opcional pues se puede echar un poquito más o menos según el gusto) y se añaden cuando la mezcla ya está templada, de este modo no pierden propiedades. Los aceites vegetales más delicados también suelen añadirse cuando la mezcla ha bajado de temperatura al igual que los activos que se le quieran añadir al jabón.

 

6.La traza

Cuando se han mezclado las grasas con la lejía y la mezcla empieza a emulsionar debemos llegar a un punto en el que la mezcla aparezca como un puré ligero, de manera que si sacamos la batidora, las varillas o la cuchara, quede un surco ligero y visible. Ha de quedar como una mayonesa ligera. En este punto se dice que se ha llegado a la traza. Suele ser el momento de añadir los aceites del sobre engrasado, los aceites esenciales y demás activos. Cuanto más ligera quede la traza más fácil será decorar el jabón, hacer capas, firulillos, embudos, etc… Si se acelera será más difícil decorar.

 

foto 3 tutorial jabones blog

Traza del jabón

 

7.La Fórmula

 

Este es un jabón con un alto acondicionado, ideal para las pieles secas y arrugadas. No lleva colorantes. Se aromatizará con aceites esenciales (aproximadamente un 7% del total de las grasas).

Pesamos la sosa en un recipiente y el agua, infusión o leche en otro. Y con los guantes y las gafas puestos, en un lugar bien ventilado, comenzamos a echar muy poco a poco la sosa sobre el agua. Cuando hacemos jabón sustituyendo el agua por leches o infusiones siempre es mejor mezclarla con la sosa previamente congelados, así conseguiremos que el líquido no se queme con la sosa y no pierda así propiedades.

 

foto 1 tutorial jabón blog

Mezclamos la sosa con el agua

 

foto 2 tutorial jabones blog

Disolvemos bien la sosa en el agua

 

foto 4 tutorial jabones blog

Pesamos las mantecas

 

Por otro lado calentamos hasta que se derritan los aceites sólidos y mantecas, siempre que no pasen de 70 grados ya que perderíamos propiedades. Reservamos en un recipiente la cantidad de aceites del sobre engrasado y los mezclamos con los aceites esenciales correspondientes. Cuando la lejía ha enfriado y está en torno a los 40 grados la vertemos sobre las grasas poco a poco y con mucho cuidado de no salpicarnos.

foto 5 turorial jabones blog

Mezclamos los aceites y las mantecas derretidas

 

foto 6 tutorial jabones blog

Echamos la lejía sobre las grasas

 

En este momento empezamos a hacer la emulsión hasta llegar a la traza.  Vertemos la cantidad de aceites del sobre engrasado y los aceites esenciales y seguimos mezclando hasta obtener la textura que deseamos.

foto 3 tutorial jabones blog

Mezclamos con la batidora

 

foto 7 tutorial jabones blog

Se añaden los aceites esenciales, activos o fragancias elegidas

 

Vertemos en el molde. Para asegurarnos que la saponificación se completa y que el proceso de gelificación es correcto, tapamos con una manta el molde y dejamos reposar 24 horas aproximadamente.

foto 8 tutorial jabones blog

Vertemos la mezcla de jabón en el molde

Cuando veamos que se puede cortar lo desmoldamos y lo cortamos en pastillas cuadradas.

Ahora empieza el proceso de “curado”. Dejaremos secar las pastillas de jabón ya cortadas durante aproximadamente unos  30-40 días. Tras este tiempo, mediremos el PH. Si está en torno a 8,5 ya lo podremos usar. Ahora ya nos aseguramos con este proceso de secado que ya no queda ningún resto de sosa  y que nuestra piel se va a beneficiar 100% de las propiedades de nuestro jabón.

  217 comments for “Tutorial sobre cómo hacer jabón Natural

  1. ip
    26 marzo, 2016 at 2:17

    muy buena la explicación…muchas gracias!

  2. Manuela
    7 junio, 2016 at 6:57

    Me gusta mucho vuestras recetas, pero me gustaría que pusierais un jabón para las partes intimas, que tuviera o tuviese un ph neutro. Os lo agradecería enormemente. Mil gracias de antemano. Un saludo desde la capital del Reino de Galicia.

    • factoria natura
      17 junio, 2016 at 14:38

      Muchas gracias por tu interés. Los jabones de proceso en frío hechos con hidróxido de sodio no tienen PH neutro, pero sin duda publicaremos una receta de jabón íntimo, o bien un gel PH neutro hecho con un tensioactivo.
      Un saludo a esa tierra maravillosa y muchas gracias por seguirnos!!!

  3. sherlley
    10 julio, 2016 at 14:03

    Buenos días tendra alguna receta con aceite de oliva para principiantes? Le agradecería desde Venezuela saludos.

    • factoria natura
      12 julio, 2016 at 15:08

      Hola Sherlley, gracias por seguirnos.
      Si quieres hacer una receta sencilla sólo con oliva te recomendamos que mires la calculadora de mendrulandia, podrás introducir tú misma los ingredientes que quieras y ella misma te indica qué cantidades de sosa y de agua debes emplear en tu fórmula.
      Un saludo cordial!!

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